August 20: Day 2 of Laugavegur Trail

After a hearty breakfast, we headed out on our longest hike of our trip.  This one was a grueling 24 km (14.9 miles) that took us approximately 8 hours to complete.  Our first stop was to Hrafntinnusker, a black obsidian desert. We saw the impressive Stórihver hot spring on the way there, which reminded me of similar ones that we saw while visiting Yellowstone Park.  

One of the highlights of today’s hike was the colorful Reykjafjöll rhyolite mountains and the Jökultungur area. Geothermal activity has helped transform these jagged ravines into vivid yellows and reds. These colors contrast dramatically with the soft pale sand-toned peaks around them. The top of Jökultungur is an incredible place to enjoy spectacular views over the whole Fjallabak (behind the mountain) area and Álftavatn, the lake close to the mountain hut where we stayed for the night. 

Another fascinating aspect of this trek is the significance of Hrafntinnusker itself. The area is named after the abundant black obsidian rocks found scattered across the landscape. Obsidian is a volcanic glass formed when molten lava cools rapidly, creating its signature smooth, dark surface. In Icelandic folklore, obsidian was believed to have protective powers, often used to ward off evil spirits. As we hiked through this otherworldly terrain, it was easy to imagine how such a unique and mysterious landscape could inspire legends.

As one last obstacle, we had to complete our first river crossing in some seriously cold waters.  Once across, we strolled along some flat terrain until we reached our comfy accommodations for the night.  

After a hot shower, we enjoyed a delicious lamb stew before crashing in bed after a super long day.